I find that last bit quite profound -- an aesthetic is cool when it signals secret knowledge around how to really live. The secret being out ruins its coolness because it ceases to be a signal of that lifestyle.
Great essay, have been thinking about it on and off for the past few weeks :)
Loved your breakdown but the writers who are bashing ALD come off as stale and hating for no reason. Teddy and his team have clearly have done something to get brands to copy their aesthetic, which also means that they have the opportunity to move the needle whenever/however. Their customer base is also much wider than just “crypto bros” and they’re also getting some insane partnerships that only brands at their level (i.e. KITH) are getting. Brands aren’t meant for everyone (style or price tag), and I don’t love every piece they drop, but I love what they’ve done for the culture for millennials and I’ll definitely continue to support them.
That was a really good read. From the very beginning, I always called ALD the new age Ralph. They’ve definitely set the tone, and everyone is following. I have two questions. Do you think ALD will reach Ralph’s status? And what are your views on Kith? I truly believe there would be no ALD if Kith didn’t exist. 🤷🏿♂️
Thanks, Courtney! Those are great questions... I guess my answer to the first would be, how do you define "status"? Cultural impact? Fashion accolades? Economic scale/success? I'm terrible at predictions but I will say that they (currently) don't have the widespread cultural recognition or the hero product that would generate it to reach Ralph's tier. When or if that changes remains to be seen. As for Kith, I still think of them primarily as a sneaker retailer, which probably tells you how much I pay attention to Kith (I did, however, think their Armani collaboration was interesting). Curious to hear more about your Kith > ALD theory.
Ronnie played an indirect role in shaping ALD’s early success by stocking the brand at Kith, giving it the exposure and credibility it needed at the time.
There’s also an undeniable synergy between the two brands in how they use New York as the foundation for their storytelling. The playbook ALD adopted rooted in nostalgia, storytelling, collaborations, and highly stylized lookbook’s is influenced by Kith.
As for the potential backlash brewing for ALD and whether they could ever reach Ralph’s tier, I do think it’s possible but only if they can ride out the wave of feeling “played out.” Personally, I believe Kith is already at the backend of this phase. They’re starting to transition into that space where they’re no longer exciting but are solidly respected. As you said you consider kith a sneaker retailer, nothing exciting but regardless they hold a space in your brain.
In my opinion, Ralph Lauren birthed both of these brands in a way. They’ve both taken cues from Ralph’s legacy, and I think they have the potential to be around for a very long time. That said, in the timeline of things, Kith is further ahead but it doesn’t get the credit it truly deserves.
I’m gonna jump in here just to try this out, I’m new to this platform.
I think Ralph is so far ahead because they are stocked at niche hotels in the Dolomites (targeting wealthy Europeans) and have a wide appeal cross-culturally. I would say that ALD feels very New York and a bit juvenile with some of their products.. I don’t think wealthy Europeans care about 1980s Krylon. To me (not from nyc) I feel like they’re actually trying to sell t shirts to kids.
That being said they do have some nice products which are less branded and might have a chance to take over market share but I think comes down to quality and brand power, building repertoire at crucial boutiques and a lot of time.
Ralph was once quoted as saying "There is a way of living that has a certain grace and beauty. It is not a constant race for what is next, rather an appreciation of that which has come before." Perhaps 9/11 hit the pause button on that "cinematic universe" and the homie lookbook is the visual evolution of the homie cookbook, but ALD will continue to do just fine as a more commercially viable Rubato (or any other highbrow but non-scalable brand) that the Simon Cromptons of the world champion so dearly. Great piece as ever MBD.
I am an Algernon Cadwallader fan, and that's all I came here to say
I find that last bit quite profound -- an aesthetic is cool when it signals secret knowledge around how to really live. The secret being out ruins its coolness because it ceases to be a signal of that lifestyle.
Great essay, have been thinking about it on and off for the past few weeks :)
Really appreciate that!
Loved your breakdown but the writers who are bashing ALD come off as stale and hating for no reason. Teddy and his team have clearly have done something to get brands to copy their aesthetic, which also means that they have the opportunity to move the needle whenever/however. Their customer base is also much wider than just “crypto bros” and they’re also getting some insane partnerships that only brands at their level (i.e. KITH) are getting. Brands aren’t meant for everyone (style or price tag), and I don’t love every piece they drop, but I love what they’ve done for the culture for millennials and I’ll definitely continue to support them.
Drakes has a lot to answer for here
Indeed
Great read. Spot on. Cheers from Sweden!
Thanks, Viktor. Need to make it to Sweden one of these days.
That was a really good read. From the very beginning, I always called ALD the new age Ralph. They’ve definitely set the tone, and everyone is following. I have two questions. Do you think ALD will reach Ralph’s status? And what are your views on Kith? I truly believe there would be no ALD if Kith didn’t exist. 🤷🏿♂️
Thanks, Courtney! Those are great questions... I guess my answer to the first would be, how do you define "status"? Cultural impact? Fashion accolades? Economic scale/success? I'm terrible at predictions but I will say that they (currently) don't have the widespread cultural recognition or the hero product that would generate it to reach Ralph's tier. When or if that changes remains to be seen. As for Kith, I still think of them primarily as a sneaker retailer, which probably tells you how much I pay attention to Kith (I did, however, think their Armani collaboration was interesting). Curious to hear more about your Kith > ALD theory.
Ronnie played an indirect role in shaping ALD’s early success by stocking the brand at Kith, giving it the exposure and credibility it needed at the time.
There’s also an undeniable synergy between the two brands in how they use New York as the foundation for their storytelling. The playbook ALD adopted rooted in nostalgia, storytelling, collaborations, and highly stylized lookbook’s is influenced by Kith.
As for the potential backlash brewing for ALD and whether they could ever reach Ralph’s tier, I do think it’s possible but only if they can ride out the wave of feeling “played out.” Personally, I believe Kith is already at the backend of this phase. They’re starting to transition into that space where they’re no longer exciting but are solidly respected. As you said you consider kith a sneaker retailer, nothing exciting but regardless they hold a space in your brain.
In my opinion, Ralph Lauren birthed both of these brands in a way. They’ve both taken cues from Ralph’s legacy, and I think they have the potential to be around for a very long time. That said, in the timeline of things, Kith is further ahead but it doesn’t get the credit it truly deserves.
I’m gonna jump in here just to try this out, I’m new to this platform.
I think Ralph is so far ahead because they are stocked at niche hotels in the Dolomites (targeting wealthy Europeans) and have a wide appeal cross-culturally. I would say that ALD feels very New York and a bit juvenile with some of their products.. I don’t think wealthy Europeans care about 1980s Krylon. To me (not from nyc) I feel like they’re actually trying to sell t shirts to kids.
That being said they do have some nice products which are less branded and might have a chance to take over market share but I think comes down to quality and brand power, building repertoire at crucial boutiques and a lot of time.
Sounds like you have a post in the making!
I think you’re right!
Banger!
Thanks, Harry!
Ralph was once quoted as saying "There is a way of living that has a certain grace and beauty. It is not a constant race for what is next, rather an appreciation of that which has come before." Perhaps 9/11 hit the pause button on that "cinematic universe" and the homie lookbook is the visual evolution of the homie cookbook, but ALD will continue to do just fine as a more commercially viable Rubato (or any other highbrow but non-scalable brand) that the Simon Cromptons of the world champion so dearly. Great piece as ever MBD.
Well-said, Miles. Appreciate the comment, and the kind words.
Love this illuminating article, Michael! I've been a passive observer of menswear for a while now, but I share many of the same sentiments.
Appreciate that a lot, Addi! Been too long, we should try to catch up in 2025.
Definitely need to get together this year and catch up
So good.
victims of their own success!