Duly Noted 022

The return of American denim, a perfect madras shirt, Son of a Tailor, made to measure sandals, do you speak watch?

A weekly edit of style observations, product obsessions, internet wanderings, and the latest happenings from the world of Mensweird.

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“The Rise, Fall, and (Maybe) Return of American Denim”

Last fall, my editor at Esquire asked a simple enough question: would I like to report a story about the prospect of bringing American denim manufacturing back? I agreed, initially seeing it as the spiritual successor to the piece I wrote on the impact of tariffs on menswear. But I quickly realized that this was a deep rabbit hole I was about to tumble down. Months of reporting, speaking to authors, industry representatives, CEOs, and brand founders, followed. One of the first decisions I made was to narrow my focus to selvedge denim, partly because that’s what would be of greatest interest to Esquire readers but also because that’s the cloth that America has a cultural claim to. My second decision was to not stop, even when I knew I was blowing past the word count my editor expected, and probably wanted, as I felt like I was on to something. In the process I read every article on American selvedge I could, and therefore I truly believe this is the most comprehensive story on the subject out there.

Sincere thanks to everyone who participated, your expertise, perspective, and opinions were essential to bringing this one to life. And to Jonathan Evans, Style Director at Esquire, thanks for letting me go (really) long.

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OMTC Nº240 Handwoven Surplus Utility Shirt

I love the history, feel, and function of madras, but I haven’t worn it in years due to the fact that it’s just so… colorful. (Yes, I get that’s a signature element of madras, and yes, I realize this is a me problem.) But when I saw this indigo patchwork shirt from the Original Madras Trading Company I knew I’d found my way back. Constructed with handwoven fabric scraps that were dyed with natural indigo, it’s got a more funky, Beams Plus vibe than the typical preppy madras shirt. Looks like there’s only small and extra-large sizes left, but if that’s you I highly recommend picking one up.

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Son Of A Tailor Poplin Shirt

I’ve been taking Ashley Ogawa Clarke’s advice to invest in breezy, button-up shirts this summer, like this one from the Copenhagen-based brand Son of a Tailor. Cut from 100% Italian poplin, it’s got a soft, dry hand that feels great against the skin, and crucially, the black colorway is a desaturated shade that gives you the intended look without feeling like you’re absorbing every UV ray in the atmosphere. Son of a Tailor also offers a clever system where you can order one of 12(!) standard sizes or go custom, but word of warning, they do run a bit tailored so size up if you prefer a more relaxed fit.

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The Sandalman #3

At the beginning of the summer I did something I swore I’d never do again: I ordered from G.H.Bass. I’d been wanting a pair of “nice” leather sandals since last year and the Memorial Day sale got me. Upon arriving they weren’t terrible, but they just didn’t fit right, so I packed them up and did what I should have from the beginning—I placed an order with The Sandalman. Founded in 1976 by brothers Pat and Scott Strader, the Newport Beach, CA workshop crafts leather sandals, with Vibram soles, to your preferences for under $100. That means filling out a questionnaire when you order about things like, how much arch support do you want and whether you have long or short toes. Scott will even send you pics of the process, although keep in mind they’re a small operation, so communication can be erratic and wait times can be a few weeks. In the end a beautiful pair arrived that fit perfectly and felt great right out of the box. I liked them so much I tried to get Scott to do an interview for Mensweird but he shot me down, which just makes me like them even more.

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Do You Speak Watch?

Check out this fun watch glossary and anatomy from the Financial Times.

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